Originality and olive oil

Read­ing the New Yorker the other day, I came across the fol­low­ing line (sub­scrip­tion required) from chef Heston Blu­menthal (renowned for using the lab tech­niques of food sci­ence for lux­ury cater­ing rather than mass pro­duc­tion). Blu­menthal was writ­ing about grow­ing up in the gast­ro­nomic wil­der­ness of 1970s Britain:

…a time when olive oil was avail­able in Bri­tain only at the chemist’s — for put­ting in your ears rather than in a pan.

The phrase soun­ded rather familiar…

Had I read it in the Guard­ian?

For most of the 20th cen­tury in Bri­tain, olive oil was some­thing you bought in the chem­ist and then stuffed in your ears with cot­ton wool. Guard­ian, 2002

Or was it the Inde­pend­ent?

Writ­ing at a time when the only olive oil you could get came from Boots and was inten­ded for soften­ing ear wax, [cook­ery writer Eliza­beth David] inveighed against post-war Brit­ish cuisine… Inde­pend­ent, 2000

There seemed to be an Eliza­beth David con­nec­tion. But it wasn’t the Sunday Her­ald

In those days olive oil was hardly fash­ion­able. In Bri­tain it was unknown except as a medi­cine, sold in small phar­ma­ceut­ical bottles for treat­ing bunged-up ears. Sunday Her­ald, 1999

Or the Irish Times:

When I was a girl, olive oil was for put­ting in your ears and you got it from the chem­ist. Irish Times, 1999

The New Yorker itself wasn’t new to the idea…

Before Eliza­beth David … olive oil could be found only at the phar­macy. New Yorker, 1998

And still it seemed to pre-date this in the Lon­don Times:

Time was when olive oil in Bri­tain was only sold at chem­ists, and used for clean­ing children’s ears. The Times, 1995

There are many more examples, take this web­site Q & A, from a Brit­ish chef:

Q: Do you think food in the UK has changed for the bet­ter since the days of Duck with Orange and huge help­ings of Black Forest Gâteau?

A: The UK has improved tre­mend­ously since the late 70s and 80s, not so long ago we could only buy Olive oil from the chem­ist, mainly to stick in your ear…

You could at least blame Wiki­pe­dia. Its entry on Eliza­beth David was altered on 20 Janu­ary, 2006 to note that:

Many of the ingredi­ents were unknown when the books were first pub­lished, and David had to sug­gest look­ing for oil in phar­ma­cies where it was sold for treat­ing earache.

My point?

Our tech­no­lo­gical abil­ity to dis­cover the repe­ti­tion of these tropes serves to illus­trate the frailty of an indi­vidual writer’s memory, the feeble­ness of edit­or­ial con­trols and the over­whelm­ing value­less­ness of purely “lit­er­ary” writing.

That’s all.

9 thoughts on “Originality and olive oil

  1. c.1986 — I dis­tinctly recall leav­ing the cinema (Top Gun) and remark­ing upon enter­ing a nearby Italian eat­ery: ‘Olive-oil? What’s this ear med­ic­a­tion doing on a menu?’

  2. Olive oil only being read­ily avail­able in chem­ists, in the UK at least, is an his­tor­ical fact. All other ‘fat’ options were still rationed when ED first poin­ted out that it could be used in cook­ing to an amazed UK audience.

  3. The olive oil in the chem­ist thing is actu­ally true, which may explain why people of a cer­tain age, me included, often trot it out to young­sters. It bears repetition.

    Once we old bug­gers die out, no one will believe it. And of course we had to walk 10 miles to school each day where we were beaten to within an inch of our lives etc

    N

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