Originality and olive oil

December 4, 2009

Read­ing the New Yorker the other day, I came across the fol­low­ing line (sub­scrip­tion required) from chef Heston Blu­menthal (renowned for using the lab tech­niques of food sci­ence for lux­ury cater­ing rather than mass pro­duc­tion). Blu­menthal was writ­ing about grow­ing up in the gast­ro­nomic wil­der­ness of 1970s Britain:

…a time when olive oil was avail­able in Bri­tain only at the chemist’s — for put­ting in your ears rather than in a pan.

The phrase soun­ded rather familiar…

Had I read it in the Guard­ian?

For most of the 20th cen­tury in Bri­tain, olive oil was some­thing you bought in the chem­ist and then stuffed in your ears with cot­ton wool. Guard­ian, 2002

Or was it the Inde­pend­ent?

Writ­ing at a time when the only olive oil you could get came from Boots and was inten­ded for soften­ing ear wax, [cook­ery writer Eliza­beth David] inveighed against post-war Brit­ish cuisine… Inde­pend­ent, 2000

There seemed to be an Eliza­beth David con­nec­tion. But it wasn’t the Sunday Her­ald

In those days olive oil was hardly fash­ion­able. In Bri­tain it was unknown except as a medi­cine, sold in small phar­ma­ceut­ical bottles for treat­ing bunged-up ears. Sunday Her­ald, 1999

Or the Irish Times:

When I was a girl, olive oil was for put­ting in your ears and you got it from the chem­ist. Irish Times, 1999

The New Yorker itself wasn’t new to the idea…

Before Eliza­beth David … olive oil could be found only at the phar­macy. New Yorker, 1998

And still it seemed to pre-date this in the Lon­don Times:

Time was when olive oil in Bri­tain was only sold at chem­ists, and used for clean­ing children’s ears. The Times, 1995

There are many more examples, take this web­site Q & A, from a Brit­ish chef:

Q: Do you think food in the UK has changed for the bet­ter since the days of Duck with Orange and huge help­ings of Black Forest Gâteau?

A: The UK has improved tre­mend­ously since the late 70s and 80s, not so long ago we could only buy Olive oil from the chem­ist, mainly to stick in your ear…

You could at least blame Wiki­pe­dia. Its entry on Eliza­beth David was altered on 20 Janu­ary, 2006 to note that:

Many of the ingredi­ents were unknown when the books were first pub­lished, and David had to sug­gest look­ing for oil in phar­ma­cies where it was sold for treat­ing earache.

My point?

Our tech­no­lo­gical abil­ity to dis­cover the repe­ti­tion of these tropes serves to illus­trate the frailty of an indi­vidual writer’s memory, the feeble­ness of edit­or­ial con­trols and the over­whelm­ing value­less­ness of purely “lit­er­ary” writing.

That’s all.

{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Anonymous January 11, 2010 at 15:13

You don’t seem able to use an apostrophe!

Reply

2 Adrian Monck January 11, 2010 at 17:07

It”’s my age.

Reply

3 Russ January 27, 2010 at 18:42

c.1986 — I distinctly recall leaving the cinema (Top Gun) and remarking upon entering a nearby Italian eatery: ‘Olive-oil? What’s this ear medication doing on a menu?’

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4 Nic Fulton February 10, 2010 at 04:02

And linseed oil is for cricket bats, right?

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5 Alan February 23, 2010 at 17:07

Olive oil only being readily available in chemists, in the UK at least, is an historical fact. All other ‘fat’ options were still rationed when ED first pointed out that it could be used in cooking to an amazed UK audience.

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6 Anonymous February 27, 2010 at 21:58

We are constrained by a shared language and thus there is no such thing as an original utterance.

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7 Anon April 16, 2010 at 11:04

RE: ‘purely “literary” writing’

What’s that then?

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8 Adrian Monck April 16, 2010 at 15:35

Prose with more style than substance… ugly expression though.

Reply

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